Method
- Set a large 5-quart pot over medium heat and melt the butter, swirling the pot until it stops foaming and just begins to smell nutty.
- Add the diced onion and cook for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until it softens and turns translucent.
- Add the sliced mushrooms all at once - the pot will look very full, but they shrink dramatically as they cook. Spread them out and let them sit undisturbed for 2 minutes before stirring, which helps them brown instead of just steaming.
- Continue cooking the mushrooms for 12 to 15 minutes total, stirring every couple of minutes, until all their released liquid has evaporated and they turn deeply golden brown; this browning is where most of the soup's flavor comes from, so do not rush past a pale, wet-looking stage.
- Add the minced garlic and thyme, stirring constantly for 1 minute until fragrant.
- Sprinkle the flour evenly over the mushroom mixture and stir constantly for 1 to 2 minutes, coating everything evenly; the mixture should look pasty and smell toasted rather than raw and starchy.
- If using, pour in the sherry and stir, scraping up any browned bits on the bottom of the pot, and let it bubble for 1 minute to cook off the sharp alcohol smell.
- Slowly pour in the broth while whisking constantly to prevent lumps from forming; add it gradually in a thin stream rather than all at once for the smoothest result.
- Raise the heat to medium-high and bring the soup to a gentle boil, then reduce heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened.
- Using an immersion blender directly in the pot (or carefully transferring in batches to a stand blender and venting the lid), blend about half the soup until smooth, leaving the other half chunky for texture; if using a stand blender with hot liquid, never fill it more than halfway and hold the lid down firmly with a towel to prevent hot splashes.
- Return all the soup to the pot if you used a stand blender, then stir in the heavy cream over low heat. Warm gently for 3 to 4 minutes, keeping the heat low so the cream does not curdle or separate.
- Season with the salt and black pepper, tasting a cooled spoonful and adjusting to your liking.
- Ladle the hot soup into bowls and serve immediately, with a swirl of extra cream or a few sauteed mushroom slices on top if you like.
Tips
Let the mushrooms sit undisturbed for a couple of minutes before stirring - constantly moving them traps steam and keeps them pale and wet instead of deeply browned and flavorful.
If blending hot soup in a stand blender, always fill it only halfway and vent the lid slightly, holding a towel over the top; hot liquid expands quickly and can blow the lid off if the blender is filled too full.